Weaving and clothing

Marie Reay in Papua New Guinea: Exploring Cultures Through Objects

Marie Reay collected many examples of weavings from natural fibres made by her informants during her 1953-1955 fieldwork in the Wahgi Valley. Many were articles of clothing, such as the tangkets, collections of coloured leaves hung from the waistband of men "to cover the division of the buttocks. They are in any case regarded as decorative." Baskets were most often used to "hold captive animals such as possums" but Reay noted that they also occasionally just held odds and ends.

Marie Reay's notecards from her 1953-1955 fieldwork show that she found that women created the majority of woven fabrics, and made several varieties of cords "for use in netting work, rolling the fibres on their thighs." Cords were knotted "on a small lath" about 9 x 1 inches. Woven objects often had ritual uses as well. One woven bundle with shells and bone included in the exhibition was a charm, made by Awal, a young man of the Kugika Clan. The Tumil kon charm was a shoulder bag containing love magic, intended to attract girls. Marie Reay noted that "Bones, particularly jaw-bones, of small marsupials are worn as love-charms by men."

The photographs below include items Marie Reay collected and donated to the ANU School of Archaeology & Anthropology collections, as well as photographs of Marie Reay's many journeys in Papua New Guinea from her collection in the ANU Archives.

Kumagi andam. Woven waistband 1954, natural fibre. Kugika Clan, South Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea Waistband obtained by Ka in trade with the Kuno (north). Worn by males.

Kumagi andam. Woven waistband 1954, natural fibre. Kugika Clan, South Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea Waistband obtained by Ka in trade with the Kuno (north). Worn by males.

Man at polling place with plumes in headdress and woven waistband [ANUA 440-1201-279]

Man at polling place with plumes in headdress and woven waistband [ANUA 440-1201-279]

Kumagl weian Waistband 1955, raffia, orchid fibre Kugika Clan, South Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea From Peil (alim), Kugika Clan. Made by Kambuga of Kandnegh and given to Alim by his wife.

Kumagl weian Waistband 1955, raffia, orchid fibre Kugika Clan, South Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea From Peil (alim), Kugika Clan. Made by Kambuga of Kandnegh and given to Alim by his wife.

Kumalg andam Waistband 1955, natural fibre, wood Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea Made by Guina for his own use.

Kumalg andam Waistband 1955, natural fibre, wood Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea Made by Guina for his own use.

Tangket Grass Cover 1954, natural fibre Maip Clan, Kuno, Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea From Sui, Maip Clan. Worn by Sui who obtained it in Kuno. Described as Tangket and worn by men as a buttock covering.

Tangket Grass Cover 1954, natural fibre Maip Clan, Kuno, Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea From Sui, Maip Clan. Worn by Sui who obtained it in Kuno. Described as Tangket and worn by men as a buttock covering.

Men in ceremonial dress with Tangket grass covers [ANUA 440-1190]

Men in ceremonial dress with Tangket grass covers [ANUA 440-1190]

Dancers at the ceremonial ground on completion of a longhouse. Dancer shown wearing tangket. [ANUA 440-1195]

Dancers at the ceremonial ground on completion of a longhouse. Dancer shown wearing tangket. [ANUA 440-1195]

Kondap Grass Cover 1954, natural fibre Konumbuga, Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea Made by Mondo's mother. Men’s public billum.

Kondap Grass Cover 1954, natural fibre Konumbuga, Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea Made by Mondo's mother. Men’s public billum.

Koz kon Basket 1955 (cane, natural fibre) Kugika Clan, South Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea. From Kina, of the Kugika Clan. Made by Kina's husband Wulje.

Koz kon Basket 1955 (cane, natural fibre) Kugika Clan, South Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea. From Kina, of the Kugika Clan. Made by Kina's husband Wulje.

Kundup making pig rope [ANUA 440-1202-541]

Kundup making pig rope [ANUA 440-1202-541]

Kondap Grass Cover 1954, natural fibre, natural dye Amp-ndambei, Djenage, Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea From Waga, of Ndage clan, married to Rinja since death of husband. Men's pubic bilum.

Kondap Grass Cover 1954, natural fibre, natural dye Amp-ndambei, Djenage, Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea From Waga, of Ndage clan, married to Rinja since death of husband. Men's pubic bilum.

Detail of Kondap Grass Cover 1954, natural fibre, natural dye Amp-ndambei, Djenage, Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea From Waga, of Ndage clan, married to Rinja since death of husband. Men's pubic bilum.

Detail of Kondap Grass Cover 1954, natural fibre, natural dye Amp-ndambei, Djenage, Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea From Waga, of Ndage clan, married to Rinja since death of husband. Men's pubic bilum.

Man in ceremonial dress, including kondap grass cover holding bow [ANUA440-1198]

Man in ceremonial dress, including kondap grass cover holding bow [ANUA440-1198]

Armband 1954, natural fibre Kugika Clan, South Wahgi Valley,, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea From Wamdi, Kugika Clan. Made of kan weian (fibre) and obtained in trade from Kuno.

Armband 1954, natural fibre Kugika Clan, South Wahgi Valley,, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea From Wamdi, Kugika Clan. Made of kan weian (fibre) and obtained in trade from Kuno.

Dulital (from Tari) on a visit to a dance at Kondambi, wearing headdress and woven armbands [ANUA 440-1197]

Dulital (from Tari) on a visit to a dance at Kondambi, wearing headdress and woven armbands [ANUA 440-1197]

Anagl ndon Armband 1954, natural fibre Maip Clan, Kuno, Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea From Ants, Kugika Clan. Made by him from kan weian (fibre) obtained in trade from Kuno.

Anagl ndon Armband 1954, natural fibre Maip Clan, Kuno, Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea From Ants, Kugika Clan. Made by him from kan weian (fibre) obtained in trade from Kuno.

Man with hat and woven armbands [ANUA 440-1198]

Man with hat and woven armbands [ANUA 440-1198]

Timp kobun (kobug) Legband 1954, natural fibre Mbenimbuga Clan, South Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea From Obo, young boy of Mbenimbuga Clan adopted by Kugika Clan. Legband made by Obo's mother.

Timp kobun (kobug) Legband 1954, natural fibre Mbenimbuga Clan, South Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea From Obo, young boy of Mbenimbuga Clan adopted by Kugika Clan. Legband made by Obo's mother.

Timp kobun (kobug) Legband 1954, natural fibre Mbenimbuga Clan, South Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea From Obo, young boy of Mbenimbuga Clan adopted by Kugika Clan. Legband made by Obo's mother.

Timp kobun (kobug) Legband 1954, natural fibre Mbenimbuga Clan, South Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea From Obo, young boy of Mbenimbuga Clan adopted by Kugika Clan. Legband made by Obo's mother.

Maria with netted string bag [ANUA 440-1202-539]

Maria with netted string bag [ANUA 440-1202-539]

Tumil kon Charm 1955 (natural fibre, shell, stone, bark, faunal bone) Kugika clan, South Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea Shoulder bag containing love magic to induce girls to ‘carry leg’. Made by Awal, a young man of the Kugika Clan.

Tumil kon Charm 1955 (natural fibre, shell, stone, bark, faunal bone) Kugika clan, South Wahgi Valley, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea Shoulder bag containing love magic to induce girls to ‘carry leg’. Made by Awal, a young man of the Kugika Clan.